Sew Over It Rosie Skirt
If you have already read my post about the online course on how to build a capsule wardrobe, you will know that as a result of taking that course, I realized that I needed something smarter to include in my wardrobe. So, I decided on a color scheme and the patterns I would use for my smarter capsule and went through my yarn and fabric stash. I had to buy most of the fabrics for making the capsule and one of the fabrics was a gray wool suiting that I used to sew the first piece of the capsule, The Sew Over It Rosie skirt.
I’m not my most comfortable in pencil skirts at my current weight, and after much back and forth on deciding between the Sewaholic Hollyburn, Butterick B6285 and the Rosie skirt, I went for the latter. I had already made a Hollyburn before and, ultimately, felt inclined to try a pattern I hadn’t used before. It was a tough decision between the two that were left, but I think I chose the Rosie skirt because it seemed less full than the Butterick skirt and, therefore, a better first garment to the smart capsule. But I am planning to make the Butterick skirt at some point too.
I found the wool suiting at the remnant sale section of one of the Eurokangas fabric stores. Originally, I was on the look for a light gray tweed wool, but since I wasn’t lucky in finding any at a reasonable price (I found one that was 59 €/meter!), I changed my plan to go hunt a light gray wool suiting. Light gray proved to be hard to find, so I gave in and bought this darker gray wool suiting.
I decided to add a lining to the skirt as the wool suiting was quite light weight and I’m always worried that someone can see through my clothes (😆), but I anticipated that the skirt will look too poofy if I used the exact same pattern pieces for the lining as for the skirt, and then gather both layers. So, instead, I used the side front pieces for both the front and the back of the lining. This way there was only minimal gathering needed for the lining to fit the waistband and still enough room for my hips. I also cut the lining a bit shorter than the shell fabric for it not to show on the right side.
The pattern doesn’t call for belt loops, but I knew I wanted to add them so that I could wear the skirt with a belt without the belt riding up. I thought that a belt would allow me to wear the skirt longer if I was successful in losing a bit more weight.
The finished waistband is 4 cm wide and I wanted four belt loops, so a cut an approximately 24 cm long and 4 cm wide strip in the main fabric, then folded the long raw edges inwards towards the center, then folded the strip once more resulting in a 1 cm wide strip and top stitched the entire length twice before cutting it into four pieces. I sewed the bottom of the belt loops between the waistband and the main fabric and sewed the top edges to the upper edge of the waistband before I stitched the waistband down on the wrong side.
At the center back, I treated the main fabric and the lining as one, but otherwise treated them separately. I machine hemmed the lining, but hand stitched the hem of the shell. At first, I did try to use the blind stitch on my sewing machine for the shell, but as the hem is curved, the stitching was very uneven on the right side. The were spots where the needle hadn’t caught the fabric at all, and spots where the small stitch on the right side was very visible. I tried the blind hemming a few times and was being extra careful, but I should have admitted right from the start that it was not going to go well because of the curved hem. The things you do to avoid hand stitching… 😅 The hand hemming went smoothly, though, and I’m happy with how the hem looks.
The wool suiting was nice to work with. It did fray a bit, but it pressed reasonably well and a final press on the hem made me even more happy with the hand stitched hem. I think the fabric worked really well with the Rosie pattern.
I like the pleat detail of the Rosie skirt as it just glides over the tummy, not adding any fullness. However, the skirt is quite full at the back and sides because of the gathering and I’m a little over the fence about whether I think it adds too much unnecessary fullness around my hips. But I do think the overall look is nice and the fabric gives it a smart look, so I will definitely wear it. If I ever make another version, I will probably add some length and perhaps leave it unlined depending on the main fabric.
I’m happy with my Rosie skirt and I think it’s a great first piece to my smart(er) capsule for Fall and Spring time. Have you made a Rosie skirt or do you even like to wear skirts? Leave a comment and let’s chat! I’d love to hear from you!